HSF Challenge #2: Innovation

Hi, there.

I have another challenge complete, and am pretty happy with the way it turned out.
For my challenge, I chose the innovation of the cage crinoline.
It definitely wasn't the first time that an artificial structure was used to support the petticoats of its wearer, both the farthingale and the pannier were hugely popular years before.
The real innovation was really the material that the "cage" was made out of: watchspring steel. Instead of caning or reed to hold out the skirts, thin bands of metal were used as support.
 I've had this bridal "hoop skirt" hanging on a peg in a dark corner of my room, and I'm frankly sick of the puffy white thing. So I took out the metal hoops, which were probably twelve feet long a piece, and gave my mom the petticoat for quilting squares.

Starting point.

Surprisingly long. 

I really like the look of colored undergarments (red cages, striped bustles, etc), so I used this pale blue and white striped cotton bias binding I have a ton of. I like the vaguely nautical look of the thing, even though it sorts clashes with my striped corset. But it goes underneath and no one really sees it :)
Well, anyway, here it is:

Worn with a chemise, corset and flannel petticoat.

One petti thrown over the top. I'll wear at least two under petticoats when I wear this. 

I used the cotton binding to cover the hoops, and fastened them all together with 1/2" cotton twill tape I found at this cute little quilting store near home ($0.20 per yard, I bought 30 yards, no joke).
I used Leimomi's hoop tutorial for reference, and made very good friends with my measuring tape. I decided on 5 hoops and 8 vertical tapes.
I sewed everything by hand, and it took probably 10 hours to complete from deconstructing the petticoat to finishing the waist tape. I will probably sew a piece of drill cloth between the bottom two hoops so I don't get my feet tangled in them. The hoop length is mid-shin, so I don't think it's necessary at the moment; I'll wait on the additional material and see if foot-tangling poses a legitimate problem.

The Challenge: "Innovation"

Fabric: striped cotton bias tape
Pattern: none, measurements based on The Dreamstress' Hoop Skirt Tutorial
Year: 1860
Notions: Cotton thread, 1/4" metal hoops, cotton twill tape
How historically accurate is it? Fairly; I researched the construction of cage crinolines and used fabric and notions that were readily available. The metal is probably too thick to be terribly accurate, but it achieves the same general appearance and skirt shape as extant examples. 
Hours to complete: Approximately 10 hours
First worn: For these pictures
Total cost: Striped cotton was given to me by a friend, thread was on hand, "bridal" hoop was $15, and 8 yards of twill tape ended up being $1.60. Total= $16.60. 

HSF Challenge #1: Make Do and Mend

   The past couple of weeks have flown by!
   My first challenge was definitely on the small side, and for good reason. I'm in the planning stages of constructing both an 1880's corset and a 1790's corset from Corsets and Crinolines. Because of that, I'm going to find things in my UFO pile that will fit into the challenges.
   I have the few remaining articles of clothing remaining in my reenacting wardrobe mended, though my corded petticoat will be an ongoing project.

   I mended some tears and wearing on my hand sewn drawers:

Some mending on the back of the waistband.

In all of their mended glory.

   My chemise only needed a few new stitches on the seams, though I did mend and cover the raveling inner shoulder seam with some twill tape:

   I added 6 rows to my corded petticoat and fixed my waistband and pleats:

The tighter channels are new. 

The plaid lining.

   Here are my undergarments together, along with my pillow ticking corset (Please forgive the lighting):

   The petticoat isn't done yet, but there is quite a bit of poof. With my other petticoats on, it looks quite nice. I ultimately want the cording to end about 12 inches from the waistband. I have some cords about 14" from the bottom, and then another 8" up from that. You can barely see them, but they're there.

   Here's the HSF info for my small start to a year of sewing:

The Challenge: "Make Do and Mend"

Fabric: cotton muslin; plaid cotton lining
Pattern: Laughing Moon Pattern #100 for chemise and drawers; none for the petticoat
Year: 1863
Notions: Cotton thread,  sisal cording
How historically accurate is it? Fairly; I used natural fibers and the pattern for the chemise and drawers look like several extant examples I've seen. My corded petticoat uses narrow cording sewn close together to provide body, and I've seen several examples of narrow corded petticoats. I'm not sure about the lining on the petticoat. I haven't seen any with a patterned lining, but I didn't have any cotton on hand other than this plaid. I figure a working-class woman would have used whatever she could get her hands on.
Hours to complete: About 5
First worn: For these pictures
Total cost: $0.00; everything was on hand.

   I think I'll probably start working on the cage crinoline I've been putting off making for the HSF Challenge #2: "Innovation".

Cheers!

Reenacting Stash and HSF 2014!

   As it is a new year, I'm taking stock of the garments and accessories I've accumulated in my years of Civil War Reenacting and purging quite a lot of it. Some items I don't fit in or like anymore, and some aren't all that accurate. I've done a lot of research on this time period and the wardrobe of working women, and I'd like my impression to reflect how much time and effort I've put into it.
   I'm going to either sell or give away my old laundress dress, as it doesn't fit and isn't as accurate as it could be, but I have to wait on getting some good boots until I've saved up (or until American Duchess rolls out the "Gettysburg" boots). My boots are leather with a wood heel, so they're not too bad, but they have eyelets and quick laces that I am seriously contemplating ripping out....

So I'm left with a skeleton wardrobe:
   2 chemises (one hand-sewn, one machined)
   2 split drawers (both machined)
   1 pair wool stockings
   1 pair cotton stockings
   1 pillow ticking corset
   1 corded petticoat
   1 wool shawl
   2 knitted wool scarves


I do have a few projects that I'm working on:
   1 plaid work dress
   1 olive checked paletot lined in flannel
   1 plaid wool hood lined in linen
   1 woven stripe linen apron

   I also want to add on some repairs/alterations to my skeleton wardrobe for the first challenge in the  Dreamstress' Historical Sew Fortnightly : "Mend". I would like to clean up my hand sewn chemise, take the synthetic lace off of a pair of drawers, and add some cording to and clean up the insides of my corded petticoat, and remake an old muslin petticoat. If I have time, I might look into removing the eyelets and quick laces on my boots.

   This is my first series of projects for the new year, though my mind is-- as always-- buzzing about on some new project. I'm going to be working on my HSF challenge and the rest of my reenacting wardrobe for the next two weeks. Slow and steady, slow and steady....

   Cheers,
               Meg

New Beginnings.

Good Evening,

   Welcome to The Tortoise and the Plume!
   A new year has begun and I'm champing at the bit to really revamp the way I costume and the way I blog.
   I've always been prone to biting off more than I can chew, and this year I'm making a point of slowing down and taking my time on well-constructed garments and accessories. After all, slow and steady prevents nervous break-downs.
   So, here's to costuming adventures and a brand new year!
   Cheers,
              Meg