I have another challenge complete, and am pretty happy with the way it turned out.
For my challenge, I chose the innovation of the cage crinoline.
It definitely wasn't the first time that an artificial structure was used to support the petticoats of its wearer, both the farthingale and the pannier were hugely popular years before.
The real innovation was really the material that the "cage" was made out of: watchspring steel. Instead of caning or reed to hold out the skirts, thin bands of metal were used as support.
I've had this bridal "hoop skirt" hanging on a peg in a dark corner of my room, and I'm frankly sick of the puffy white thing. So I took out the metal hoops, which were probably twelve feet long a piece, and gave my mom the petticoat for quilting squares.
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| Starting point. |
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| Surprisingly long. |
I really like the look of colored undergarments (red cages, striped bustles, etc), so I used this pale blue and white striped cotton bias binding I have a ton of. I like the vaguely nautical look of the thing, even though it sorts clashes with my striped corset. But it goes underneath and no one really sees it :)
Well, anyway, here it is:
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| Worn with a chemise, corset and flannel petticoat. |
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| One petti thrown over the top. I'll wear at least two under petticoats when I wear this. |
I used the cotton binding to cover the hoops, and fastened them all together with 1/2" cotton twill tape I found at this cute little quilting store near home ($0.20 per yard, I bought 30 yards, no joke).
I used Leimomi's hoop tutorial for reference, and made very good friends with my measuring tape. I decided on 5 hoops and 8 vertical tapes.
I sewed everything by hand, and it took probably 10 hours to complete from deconstructing the petticoat to finishing the waist tape. I will probably sew a piece of drill cloth between the bottom two hoops so I don't get my feet tangled in them. The hoop length is mid-shin, so I don't think it's necessary at the moment; I'll wait on the additional material and see if foot-tangling poses a legitimate problem.
The Challenge: "Innovation"
Fabric: striped cotton bias tape
Pattern: none, measurements based on The Dreamstress' Hoop Skirt Tutorial
Year: 1860
Notions: Cotton thread, 1/4" metal hoops, cotton twill tape
How historically accurate is it? Fairly; I researched the construction of cage crinolines and used fabric and notions that were readily available. The metal is probably too thick to be terribly accurate, but it achieves the same general appearance and skirt shape as extant examples.
Hours to complete: Approximately 10 hours
First worn: For these pictures
Total cost: Striped cotton was given to me by a friend, thread was on hand, "bridal" hoop was $15, and 8 yards of twill tape ended up being $1.60. Total= $16.60.
Pattern: none, measurements based on The Dreamstress' Hoop Skirt Tutorial
Year: 1860
Notions: Cotton thread, 1/4" metal hoops, cotton twill tape
How historically accurate is it? Fairly; I researched the construction of cage crinolines and used fabric and notions that were readily available. The metal is probably too thick to be terribly accurate, but it achieves the same general appearance and skirt shape as extant examples.
Hours to complete: Approximately 10 hours
First worn: For these pictures
Total cost: Striped cotton was given to me by a friend, thread was on hand, "bridal" hoop was $15, and 8 yards of twill tape ended up being $1.60. Total= $16.60.
