Friday, January 17, 2014

HSF Challenge #1: Make Do and Mend

   The past couple of weeks have flown by!
   My first challenge was definitely on the small side, and for good reason. I'm in the planning stages of constructing both an 1880's corset and a 1790's corset from Corsets and Crinolines. Because of that, I'm going to find things in my UFO pile that will fit into the challenges.
   I have the few remaining articles of clothing remaining in my reenacting wardrobe mended, though my corded petticoat will be an ongoing project.
   I mended some tears and wearing on my hand sewn drawers:
Some mending on the back of the waistband.

In all of their mended glory.

   My chemise only needed a few new stitches on the seams, though I did mend and cover the raveling inner shoulder seam with some twill tape:


   I added 6 rows to my corded petticoat and fixed my waistband and pleats:
The tighter channels are new. 

The plaid lining.

   Here are my undergarments together, along with my pillow ticking corset (Please forgive the lighting):






   The petticoat isn't done yet, but there is quite a bit of poof. With my other petticoats on, it looks quite nice. I ultimately want the cording to end about 12 inches from the waistband. I have some cords about 14" from the bottom, and then another 8" up from that. You can barely see them, but they're there.

   Here's the HSF info for my small start to a year of sewing:

The Challenge: "Make Do and Mend"
Fabric: cotton muslin; plaid cotton lining
Pattern: Laughing Moon Pattern #100 for chemise and drawers; none for the petticoat
Year: 1863
Notions: Cotton thread,  sisal cording
How historically accurate is it? Fairly; I used natural fibers and the pattern for the chemise and drawers look like several extant examples I've seen. My corded petticoat uses narrow cording sewn close together to provide body, and I've seen several examples of narrow corded petticoats. I'm not sure about the lining on the petticoat. I haven't seen any with a patterned lining, but I didn't have any cotton on hand other than this plaid. I figure a working-class woman would have used whatever she could get her hands on.
Hours to complete: About 5
First worn: For these pictures
Total cost: $0.00; everything was on hand.
   I think I'll probably start working on the cage crinoline I've been putting off making for the HSF Challenge #2: "Innovation".

Cheers!

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Reenacting Stash and HSF 2014!


   As it is a new year, I'm taking stock of the garments and accessories I've accumulated in my years of Civil War Reenacting and purging quite a lot of it. Some items I don't fit in or like anymore, and some aren't all that accurate. I've done a lot of research on this time period and the wardrobe of working women, and I'd like my impression to reflect how much time and effort I've put into it.
   I'm going to either sell or give away my old laundress dress, as it doesn't fit and isn't as accurate as it could be, but I have to wait on getting some good boots until I've saved up (or until American Duchess rolls out the "Gettysburg" boots). My boots are leather with a wood heel, so they're not too bad, but they have eyelets and quick laces that I am seriously contemplating ripping out....

So I'm left with a skeleton wardrobe:
   2 chemises (one hand-sewn, one machined)
   2 split drawers (both machined)
   1 pair wool stockings
   1 pair cotton stockings
   1 pillow ticking corset
   1 corded petticoat
   1 wool shawl
   2 knitted wool scarves


I do have a few projects that I'm working on:
   1 plaid work dress
   1 olive checked paletot lined in flannel
   1 plaid wool hood lined in linen
   1 woven stripe linen apron

   I also want to add on some repairs/alterations to my skeleton wardrobe for the first challenge in the  Dreamstress' Historical Sew Fortnightly : "Mend". I would like to clean up my hand sewn chemise, take the synthetic lace off of a pair of drawers, and add some cording to and clean up the insides of my corded petticoat, and remake an old muslin petticoat. If I have time, I might look into removing the eyelets and quick laces on my boots.

   This is my first series of projects for the new year, though my mind is-- as always-- buzzing about on some new project. I'm going to be working on my HSF challenge and the rest of my reenacting wardrobe for the next two weeks. Slow and steady, slow and steady....

   Cheers,
               Meg

Friday, January 3, 2014

New Beginnings.

Good Evening,

   Welcome to The Tortoise and the Plume!
   A new year has begun and I'm champing at the bit to really revamp the way I costume and the way I blog.
   I've always been prone to biting off more than I can chew, and this year I'm making a point of slowing down and taking my time on well-constructed garments and accessories. After all, slow and steady prevents nervous break-downs.
   So, here's to costuming adventures and a brand new year!
   Cheers,
              Meg