A Pair of Stays

I’m on a sewing binge.

It’s pretty awful (by which I mean awesome, but making those around me fear for my social life and/or sanity). So far, these projects have been hand sewn, which means progress is slow-going.

                I’m finally posting my third HSF project, and have gone rogue. I’m off in my own land of stay-making.

                Here is my latest HSF challenge, “Under It All”:

                I’m in love. This garment is the first that I've ever been truly proud of.

                They’re made out of three layers of linen (not including the floating linen lining), sewn with 35/2 linen thread, and boned with ¼” cane. They are completely hand sewn.

Interior before lining was added.

                Each panel was sewn and boned independently, and then whip-stitched together. The panel seams were then covered with silk ribbon and the whole thing was bound in twill tape. Eyelets were worked by hand using 35/2 linen thread.

The tiny eyelets are probably my favorite detail on these stays.

Interior shot of tiny eyelets before lining was added.

                The illustration given for the pattern shows the shoulder straps attached to both the front and back of the stays, which I really like. I can’t stand the shoulder straps that are tied to the body; they’re bulky and tend to shift when I’m wearing them. It very well may be that I am making shoulder straps in a completely ridiculous and flappy way, so attaching them to the front and back is my new go-to method. I've found that it also helps wrangle my appalling posture.

 

 I set the horizontal and vertical bones between separate linen layers so friction wouldn't fray the reed.

 

                They are short in the torso because by this date they’re getting into transitional territory. The bottom stay edge (above the tabs) sits 2" above my natural waist. Because of their length, they won’t work with the 1780’s Zone Front gown, or the 1770’s Robe a l’Anglaise I’m planning (which means I've started making another pair of stays. That’s proper justification, right?)

                I bought 7 yards of organza to make a 1790’s round gown (and a fichu for my Zone Front), and am fiddling with a pattern for the open robe featured in both Arnold and Waugh, so these stays will definitely be worn.

                Because I had so much fun making these, I started making a new pair of 1770’s stays the next day.Yes, I know. I have a problem.

Half shot of stays, full shot of ostrich plume. 

The Challenge: #4 “Under It All”

Fabric: Linen

Pattern: Based on the 1790’s stays in Waugh’s Corset and Crinolines.

Year: 1790’s (can be taken into the very early 1800s)

Notions: 35/2 linen thread, ¼” cane, 1/3” twill tape, ¼” silk ribbon

How historically accurate is it: Probably 95-100%. I used historically accurate construction methods and materials. I’m actually quite proud of these.

First worn: Not out and about yet, but I have modeled them for my long-suffering friends.

How many hours to complete: Probably close to 30? I need to better document my time on my next project; making calculations based on the number of miniseries I go through is really not accurate.

Total Cost: Linen fabric was $14.00 for two yards, linen thread from the stash, cane $3.00, twill tape $2.00, silk ribbon $2.50. Total cost= $21.50